I ended up hammering them a little tighter with the hanson and a head die in my vice after it was assembled. I used my press to get it assembled but even it wasnt quite tight enough for sling switches but satisfactory. I just re-riveted some sling switches to reverse the mounting bracket and 3rd contact leaf. That said, the hanson tool works well in almost all cases, but for big things like ramps, you really need a helper to hold the part while you hammer the rivet on. I end up 'finishing up' the rivet to tighten it with the hanson tool in most cases. The tonka tool works ok but doesnt really tighten enough for the money. Oddly, I actually use all of them depending on the job. I have all of the rivet tools, all of them.

Out of a couple hundred ramp flaps and switch brackets, I've cracked exactly 1 ramp.and that was due to me not doing it on a solid surface, and it moved when I hit it. Hit it enough that it doesn't move any more. Develop a feel for how much force it takes to set the rivet completely. This is where the practice comes in.you don't just wail on it. If possible, drill the through hole 1/64 oversize (.140'). Always use a backup block made of metal against the head of the rivet, and place that on a solid surface. Nickel plated brass are OEM and set easier. Do not use steel rivets.they take more force. You need to practice first to get the hang of it. Yes, that's 3/16'.but the rivet people go be 32nds. 089' on all 1/8' semi tubular rivets.Ģ) ALWAYS USE A BACKUP WASHER ON PLASTIC!Ħ/32' is usually what I use for ramp flaps. You need enough of the rivet sticking through that you can roll the edges over, but not so much that you run out of the hollow section to work with. Use a caliper to measure the sum of the thicknesses of the items you are riveting. 1) Get the correct length rivet! You'll be pounding until tomorrow if you picked one that is too long.

Rivet squeezer set